Running between the palaces of Gyeonghuigung and Deoksugung is Jeongdonggil (정동길), a quiet, shaded road that’s a world removed from the bustle of the City Hall area. You may notice a near-total lack of couples on this road, as Seoulites have long held the superstition that those who walk here will soon break up. Along this road is the large, modern Seoul Museum of Art (서울 시립 미술관; Tues–Sun 10am–10pm; W700); it’s well worth popping in for a look at what is almost always a fresh, high-quality exhibition of art from around the world. Continuing further up the road, you’ll find a few restaurants and cafés, as well as Chongdong Theatre, which puts on regular pansori performances. There’s also an array of underground shopping arcades in and around City Hall station – one heads towards Myeongdong, while another heads east for a number of kilometres under the main road of Euljiro.

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