At the start of Serangoon Rd, Tekka Market is a must-see, combining many of Little India’s commercial elements under one roof. It’s best to arrive in the morning when the wet market – as Singaporeans term a traditional market where the floor is periodically cleaned by hosing it down – is at its busiest. More sanitary than it once was thanks to recent renovations, the market is nevertheless hardly sanitized – halal butchers push around trolleys piled high with goats’ heads, while at seafood stalls live crabs, their claws tied together, shuffle in buckets. Look out also for a couple of stalls selling nothing but banana leaves, used to serve up delicious curry meals all over Singapore but especially in Little India. The cooked food at the hawker centre here is excellent, and though the same can’t be said of the mundane outlets upstairs selling Indian fabrics and household items, there are great views over the wet market to be had from here.

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