Spectacularly situated on the banks of the Rapti River, opposite a prime area of jungle, SAURAHA (pronounced So-ruh-hah) is one of those unstoppably successful destinations at which Nepal seems to excel. In some lights it looks like the archetypal budget safari village, with its lodges spread out along dusty roads at the edge of the forest; at other times, you could half-close your eyes and imagine yourself in a mini Thamel. While there’s still a lot to recommend it, not least the ease of access into the park, Sauraha loses a little more of what once made it so enjoyable each year: buildings are springing up at an alarming rate.

The fast-changing cluster of shops and hotels that make up Sauraha “village” constitutes most of the action, though there’s little to do except shop, eat and plan excursions.

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