One attraction in the southern part of the interior is worth making a diversion for, the Kuala Gandah Elephant Conservation Centre (wmyelephants.org), run by the government’s Wildlife Department. Here they care for elephants being relocated to reserves from areas of habitat destruction, or which had to be subdued while mengamuk – a Malay term that would be untranslatable were it not the source of the English word “amok”. The best time to turn up is 2pm (2.45pm on Fri), when for a couple of hours visitors have the chance to get hands-on with the elephants, riding, feeding or even bathing with them (bring a change of clothes).

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