Around 50km north of Jerantut, KUALA TAHAN is a grassy township of guesthouses and floating restaurants, facing a solid green wall of jungle across the turbid, 50m-wide Tembeling River. As a base, Kuala Tahan has many virtues: it boasts reasonable transport connections, plenty of accommodation, a few stores selling (and renting) basics you might have forgotten to bring with you, and even mobile coverage, though no banks or ATMs. Most importantly, current information about Taman Negara is on hand at the national park headquarters – where all visitors also need to register and pay park fees – just a quick ferry ride over the river at the start of the park’s hiking trails. Take a torch with you to wander around the village in the evening, as the electricity can be flaky.

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