Spending a night in one of the park’s hides (known as bumbuns) doesn’t guarantee sightings of large mammals, especially in the dry season when the salt licks – where plant-eating animals come to supplement their mineral intake – are often so waterless that there’s little reason for deer, tapir, elephant, leopard or seladang to visit, but it’s an experience you’re unlikely to forget. It’s best to go in a group and take turns keeping watch, listening hard and occasionally shining a torch at the salt lick – if an animal is present its eyes will reflect brightly in the beam.

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