In bustling JERANTUT, 50km south of Kuala Tahan, road, rail and river converge in a small grid of streets. Activity revolves around the central, open-air bus station, set among market stalls close to most of the businesses, with the train station 500m west and Tembeling Jetty, for traffic upriver to Kuala Tahan, a short taxi ride north. And that’s about it; the town is just somewhere to find last-minute supplies, top up with cash (there are no banks at Kuala Tahan), and have a feed before heading out.

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