South of the town centre, Ochheuteal Beach, the town’s longest and busiest strand, is a 3km stretch of fine sand lined with bars and restaurants. The roads behind have a good selection of hotels and guesthouses, while the sand itself is lined by near-identical beach bars, prevented from encroaching too far onto the beach by a tiled pedestrian walkway. That said, their respective beach umbrellas, deck chairs and tables still stretch to the water. Freshwater showers and toilets cater for the pretty much 24-hour activity. During the day it’s packed with Cambodian families and sun-soaking tourists; by night, the BBQs are fired up and the cocktails start flowing into the early hours.

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