Don’t leave town without savouring the local seafood, priced by the kilogram and cheaper than anywhere else in the country. If you prefer something informal, flop in a deck chair on the beach and order what you fancy from passing hawkers, and the fabulous (and fabulously cheap) evening seafood barbecues on Ochheuteal Beach ($3.50). For cheap eats in the centre, the night market opens up south of Ekareach St near the Golden Lions roundabout in late afternoon, and there are dozens of street vendors around Psar Leu. You’ll find a good range of Western-oriented places on the streets behind Ochheuteal and Serendipity, serving everything from fish and chips to wood-fired pizza and falafel. Most of the restaurants on Otres double up as bars.

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