Kep is a sprawling place. The road for town branches away from NR33 at the prominent White Horse Monument, from where it’s 5 or 6km to the right turn to Psar K’Dam, the famous crab market. From here the road runs along the seafront for 1km or so to Kep Beach, where the narrow, dark-sand beach broadens out fractionally. Set back in a circular precinct is the transport stop, as well a couple of hotels, some local stores and several of the ubiquitous huts furnished with mats and hammocks that Cambodians love to rent out for a day’s relaxing (it gets busy here at weekends). Getting back from here to the crab market, the one-way system dictates that you head north away from the beach and take the first left at the roundabout. East of Kep, the paved road runs to the Vietnamese border, and the crossing at Prek Chak (for Ha Tien and Phu Quoc).

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