SEN MONOROM is still little more than a large village set amid a landscape of rolling grass-covered hills – more reminiscent of England than Cambodia – dotted with copses of pine planted in the late 1960s at the king’s behest. The two lakes close to town are pleasant for an early morning or late afternoon stroll, while 2km northeast from town is the sacred mountain Phnom Dosh Kramom (known as Youk Srosh Phlom to the Bunong), a small hill with a meditation pagoda, from which there are splendid views.

Trekking in Sen Monorom, although not yet as big as in Banlung, is becoming increasingly popular, with a variety of routes lasting from a day to a week. The best operators use Bunong guides, who intimately know the forests through which you’ll be walking. Treks generally include a mix of cultural and scenic attractions, with visits to Bunong villages and waterfalls along with jungle hiking and wild swimming.

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