The craggy limestone mountain of Phnom Sampeu (Boat Mountain), topped with a colourful cluster of temples and shrines, makes an interesting excursion, though it’s best known for its tragic associations with the Khmer Rouge, who turned the buildings here into a prison, many of whose inmates were executed.

On arrival, you’ll be dropped at the foot of the steps leading steeply up the hill – a hard climb featuring well over five hundred steps. Alternatively walk (or catch a moto) up the road on your left – much less strenuous. Whichever route you take, don’t stray from clearly defined paths as most of the hills hereabouts are thought to be mined.

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