The only town of any size between Webuye and the Ugandan border is BUNGOMA, a surprisingly animated commercial town, with its Sharriffs Centre shopping plaza and bustling, arcaded main street. There’s a Barclays ATM (the first you’ll find if you’re coming from Uganda), but no special reason to stop.

If you’re heading south from Bungoma on the C33, the road is good all the way to Mumias. West of Bungoma, the tarmac is smooth and the scenery unexciting until you reach the border crossing at MALABA. This is less used by passenger road traffic than Busia, but it’s where most freight, as well as the (presently freight-only) railway line, crosses the border with Uganda. Endless lines of lorries choke the roads on both sides; for some, it can take days to get across. Fortunately, pedestrians can cross without difficulty. Official formalities are relatively simple, and moneychangers are on hand on both sides of the border. Try to find out the current rates in advance, watch out for scams and count the currency you’re buying carefully before handing yours over.

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