Easily explored in half a day on foot or by vehicle, the trio of churches known as Taka Tesfai lies to the east of the busy Adigrat road 16km north of Wukro. The most interesting church here is Adi Kasho Medhane Alem, a cathedral-like cliff excavation with an airy front cloister. Its coffered ceiling is particularly finely executed, and the tranquil and devout atmosphere reflects its status as one of the region’s most historic churches. Also worth visiting is Petros and Paulus Melehayzenghi, which comprises an abandoned cliff church with some lovely old line drawings of saints on the outer walls, plus a modern replacement. The least interesting of the trio, Mikael Melehayzenghi has a largely unadorned interior but is rather unusual in that it has been carved into a domed rock outcrop.

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