The Tasman Peninsula
The Tasman Peninsula is one of the most visited parts of the state. Everyone comes on a day-trip for the penal settlement of Port Arthur – the most popular attraction in Tasmania before Hobart’s MONA gallery – yet this peninsula is worth a visit in its own right: there are superb bushwalks around its spectacular south and eastern coastline, incredible nature cruises and a good wildlife park. That your Port Arthur ticket is valid for two days is just one more reason to stay overnight. The fastest route from Hobart to the Tasman Peninsula is northeast along the Tasman Highway then across the Sorell Causeway to the small town of Sorell, your last chance for shopping and banking.
Devils in danger
Made world-famous by the angry cartoon character “Taz”, the Tasmanian devil, Sarcophilus harrisii, is actually a stocky nocturnal black-haired animal about the size of a squat bulldog. That makes it the world’s largest carnivorous marsupial, with an appetite for carrion, reptiles and insects to match. The name was coined by European settlers who found the marsupial’s call, ranging from a low groan to a banshee screech, positively demonic.
Yet devils need all the friends they can get right now. Devil Facial Tumour Disease (DFDT), a contagious cancer that is transmitted by saliva and causes fatal bulbous lesions, has spread across the state at around 15km a year since it was detected in northeast Tasmania in 1996. In the ensuing decade, there was a 95 percent decline in devil sightings. While geneticists race to map the twelve strains of the disease, the state’s Save the Tasmanian Devil Programme (w tassiedevil.com.au) is pinning hopes on breeding colonies such as Trowunna Wildlife Park and Devils@Cradle, as well as large disease-free enclosures in Tasmania and on the mainland. These programmes are the last line of defence for a top predator whose demise threatens to destabilize the entire Tasmanian ecosystem. The species went onto the “Endangered” list in 2010; not quite on the brink of extinction, perhaps, but close to the edge.
Port Arthur historic site
In 1830, PORT ARTHUR was selected to host a prison settlement on the “natural penitentiary” of the Tasman Peninsula, its “gate” at Eaglehawk Neck guarded by dogs. It was intended for convicts who committed serious crimes in New South Wales or Van Diemen’s Land after transportation. The regime was never a subtle one: Van Diemen’s Land Lieutenant-Governor George Arthur believed that a convict’s “whole fate should be … the very last degree of misery consistent with humanity”. However, his aim was to create “a machine to grind rogues honest”. This was rehabilitation rather than punitive punishment; work with the system and your years would slip past, fight it and you would be crushed.
The first 150 convicts established a timber industry, then Port Arthur became a self-supporting centre of industry, with shipbuilding, brickmaking, shoemaking, even agriculture. In a separate prison for boys at Point Puer, inmates were taught trades. Meanwhile, prison officers and their families enjoyed gardens, a drama club, a library and regular cricket. After transportation ended, psychological punishment replaced physical. The Separate Prison, based on Pentonville Prison in London, opened in 1852, where prisoners were held in tiny cells in isolation and silence, always referred to by numbers and hooded whenever they left their cells. The idea represented progressive penal ideas that let convicts contemplate their misdeeds, but by the time Port Arthur closed in 1877 it had its own mental asylum full of ex-convicts, as well as a geriatric home for ex-convict paupers.
Tasman Peninsula eco-cruises and diving
An eco-cruise along the spectacular coastline of the Tasman Peninsula is reason enough to visit. Tours in high-speed boats hug the 200m cliffs and nose into sea-caves – expect to see sea eagles, albatross, seals on Tasman Island, possibly dolphins, and if you’re lucky, whales from September to December and April to May. All in all, highly recommended.
Eaglehawk Dive Centre eaglehawkdive.com.au. Provides dive-boat charters (equipment included) into the spectacular dive sites of the Tasman coast: caves, shipwrecks, kelp forests and nearby seal colonies, with an underwater visibility of 15–30m.
Tasman Island Adventure Cruises www.tasmancruises.com.au. Based in Eaglehawk Neck, this operator makes a return trip from Pirates Bay, so no cruise past Port Arthur but two runs up the superb coastline.
Tasman Island Cruises tasmancruises.com.au. An award-winning outfit that sails out from Port Arthur to jet down to Tasman Island, then zip up the coast to Pirates Bay (Eaglehawk Neck), with a return by minibus.
Tour and expedition operators
Tasmania deserves at least a fortnight but if time and money are tight, tour operators will whisk you around the major sights. In addition, activity providers offer expeditions that are a holiday in their own right. All of those here include park entry fees and accommodation.
Green Island Tours cycling-tasmania.com. Supported and self-guide cycle tours around the state, from four to eleven days.
Jump Tours jumptours.com. Young, lively backpacker tours that are among the cheapest available (though don’t include meals) from a new Hobart-based company. Hostel accommodation with an opportunity to upgrade from dorms.
Pepper Bush Adventures www.tasmanianwildlifetours.com.au. High-end bespoke tours with unique experiences and good tucker from one of the best wildlife guides in the state, Craig “Bushy” Williams. Based in Launceston.
Rafting Tasmania raftingtasmania.com. One of the most experienced providers of tours along the magic Franklin River – one of the world’s greatest raft adventures over five to ten days – but also runs day-trips on the Derwent and Picton rivers.
Tarkine Trails tarkinetrails.com.au. Speciality operator for the northwest Tarkine region; coast and forest walks, plus speciality photography trips.
Tasmanian Expeditions tasmanianexpeditions.com.au. This Launceston-based company is the leading adventure provider in the state. Trips cover all wilderness walks (including some serious expeditions) and acts as a retailer for upmarket cabin-based walks, plus cycle and multi-activity trips.
Under Down Under Tours underdownunder.com.au. Small-group hostel-based backpacker tours plus Discovery Tours with hotel accommodation. Two- to nine-day trips take in the major sights, with short walks in national parks, plus breakfasts. Also operates day-trips to major sights from Hobart and Launceston.
The west
It’s the lure of wilderness that attracts a certain type of traveller to Tasmania: the thrill of walks in a pure environment and boat expeditions through primeval rainforest. For those who’d like a taste of this adventure, the west’s holiday hub of Strahan is the place to head. Once a lonely fishing village at the edge of the world, Strahan was transformed into one of Tasmania’s leading wilderness resorts almost overnight by a campaign to preserve the wild Franklin River.
The fast road to Strahan is the A10 which spears southwest of Burnie through tiny mining towns in various stages of atrophy to Queenstown, the rough ’n’ ready heartland of west-coast mining. The road was built in the 1960s to improve access to the northwest forests and logging remains a major industry hereabouts. Along the route the extent of plantation forest may come as a shock (due to its monoculture, it’s the eco equivalent of desert), especially if you’re used to the lushness and biodiversity of the protected wilderness elsewhere. On the stretch from Strahan to Hobart, the A10 passes through the pristine wilderness of the UNESCO-listed Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and the bottom edge of Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair National Park; a section of road that’s worth lingering over.
Australia’s original eco-war
The future of the Tasmanian wilderness could have been very different had it not been for a bitter battle waged by environmentalists in the 1980s. In 1972 the flooding of Lake Pedder led to the formation of the Wilderness Society, which began a relentless campaign against the next target on the Hydro Electricity Commission’s (HEC) agenda – a huge dam on the Lower Gordon River. It had state government backing despite the catastrophic effect on Tasmania’s last wild river, the Franklin. In a blocking manoeuvre the whole southwest area was proposed for the World Heritage List. It was officially accredited on the same day that the Wilderness Society’s Franklin Blockade began – December 14, 1982. The Tasmanian government had chosen to ignore the UNESCO accreditation.
For two months, protestors from all over Australia took to inflatable dinghies, paddling upriver from Strahan to stand in front of bulldozers in nonviolent protest. The blockade became a cause célèbre in Sydney and Melbourne and attracted international attention – British botanist David Bellamy was among the twelve hundred or so arrested for trespassing. During the course of the campaign, a new federal government was voted in, and in March 1983, following a trailblazing High Court ruling, it over ruled the state’s backing for the HEC plans. Although the blockade itself had failed to stop preparatory work on the dam, it had changed the opinion of many Australians forever and enshrined the value of Tasmanian wilderness at state and national levels.
Rafting on the Franklin River
You can cruise up the Gordon or fly over it from Strahan, but to really experience the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park’s utterly pristine scenery and awesome sense of remoteness, you need to raft the Franklin River. One of the great rivers of Australia, saved from destruction by protests in the early 1980s and the only major wild river in Tasmania, it races through canyons in grade 3 to 4 rapids – even grade 6 in places – and through thick inaccessible rainforest. No wonder this is known by rafters as one of the greatest paddle adventures in the world.
Rafting trips generally run between December and early April on five- to ten-day trips, depending on where you start. From Collingwood River, off the Lyell Highway, it takes about three days to raft the Upper Franklin, riding rapids through subalpine scenery. The Middle Franklin is a mixture of pools, deep ravines and wild rapids as the river makes a 50km detour around Frenchmans Cap. Limestone cliffs overhang the Lower Franklin, which involves a tranquil paddle through dense myrtle beech forests with flowering leatherwoods overhead, and Kutikina Caves and Deena-reena –Aboriginal sights that are only accessible to rafters.
Due to the dangers of the trip, visitors should go with a specialist tour operator. You don’t have to be experienced to sign up – just fit, with lots of stamina and courage. It’s not cheap, but this is an experience of a lifetime.
Rafting Tasmania raftingtasmania.com. Five-, seven- and ten-day rafting expeditions, from the company of Grant Mitchell, one of the first kayakers to explore the river and instrumental in saving it. The ten-day trip includes an optional day-walk to Frenchmans Cap.
Water by Nature franklinrivertasmania.com. Water by Nature offers a five-day trip on the Lower Franklin, a seven-day trip on the Upper Franklin, or ten days rafting the full navigable length of the river. The ten-day trip also includes the Frenchmans Cap.
Strahan
STRAHAN is not just the only town and port on Tassie’s wild west coast; it is also one of the premier tourist destinations in Tasmania. “The best little town in the world”, said the Chicago Tribune newspaper in 2011 of what is just an over-sized village. The reason is twofold: its setting on Macquarie Harbour, a body of water over six times the size of Sydney’s harbour; and the surrounding southwestern wilderness.
Such is its fame that, in summer at least, Strahan has ceased to be “real” in the normal sense. For all the hype about a typical west-coast village, fishing is a sideshow to tourism. Strahan is on a different level from other towns in west Tasmania, with more agencies offering sightseeing trips and activities than in the rest of the area combined. What saves it from tackiness is that it remains an attractive place – the tourism infrastructure on the harbour is far from the eyesore it could have been – and the surrounding wilderness is as compelling as ever.
The West Coast Wilderness Railway
In 2002 a $30-million investment saw trains once again rattle along the old Abt Railway between Queenstown and Strahan. The original railway was completed in 1896 to transport copper ore from Queenstown to Regatta Point in Strahan, but closed in 1963, when road transport became more economical. Reconstruction took three years, only six months less than it took the original workers to hack through the rainforest by hand, two of the line’s four surviving steam locomotives were restored and replica carriages were built using native woods. Known as the West Coast Wilderness Railway (5hr; previously from $111), the line was a popular trip from Strahan – on our last visit its former operator had been sold and the line had been taken into government hands as new bidders were sought. It was due to reopen in December 2013. Contact the West Coast Visitor Centre in Strahan for the latest.
Previously, it ran twice daily, with most visitors embarking at Strahan, then swinging through the King River Valley and climbing up to Dubbil Barril on a 1:16 rack-and-pinion track system before they arrived in Queenstown in a reconstructed station opposite the Empire Hotel. From here, most returned by bus, while new passengers embarked at Queenstown for the return. Either way, each trip divided between steam and diesel trains, with the changeover at a reconstructed mine settlement in the rainforest. If the trains are running again, try to secure a riverside seat; when facing forward, sit on the right-hand side from Strahan, or left from Queensland.