Follow your nose on Rota Vicentina
Much of this path existed before the Rota Vicentina team began maintaining and marking it. Yet we saw few signs of settlement.
José said the Portuguese left this “outback” in the 1970s. Often to go to university. Then the area became popular with Dutch and Germans who built houses on hilltops. By contrast, local farmers build at the sheltered foot of hills.
The aromas here were as potent as the views.
It seemed like we were walking through a pine forest. But José said the main note was esteva. Known as rockrose it's the trail's emblematic plant. And its five purple dots are likened locally to Christ's wounds. The sticky leaves smell with a hint of citrus. One of us compared it oleander. Another said citronella. It reminded me of Vietnamese cooking.
José also broke off what he called, ‘white rosemary’. It smelled exactly like undiluted lime cordial.
Prefer to leave planning and booking to experts? Have a look at some sample itineraries. Both Complete Portugal or Portugal Itineraries offer inspiration. All Tailor Made Trips can be modified together with your local expert, then booked for a stress-free holiday. Click 'Modify this itinerary' to contact a local Portugal expert.
Walking in Portugal is the stuff of legend
After 11km we stopped at Ribeira da Capelinha (‘little chapel stream’). Our packed lunch was simple. A folded fried egg, lettuce and
Alentejo bread. But with the smell of eucalyptus, the sound of the stream and the dappled light, it was enough.
My Historical Way highlight was our swim at Pego das Pias.
Semi-circular sections have been hewn from this swimming hole’s sides by rolling rocks. According to José, these pegos (small lakes) are associated with magical female spirits. They're known as mouras encantadas. And are said to guard Portugal’s watery places. Pego da Laima nearby, is said to have a golden arrow hidden in its depths.