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written by Rough Guides Editors
updated 9.07.2019
You’re at an altitude of 3900m, shivering in the cold as the sun rises behind you. Below, a saw-edge precipice encircles a still, emerald-green lake 3km in diameter. Lower still, fertile plateaus creased with deep, shadowed valleys are picked out by the golden dawn light and, beyond, snow-capped peaks fringe the horizon.
This is the dormant volcano of Quilotoa, high in the Andes’ central highlands. In the late 1940s, its altitude, beauty and proximity to the equator led a young American here who believed himself to be a reincarnation of John the Baptist. He called himself Johnny Lovewisdom and stayed on the lake shore for a year, pursuing his belief that it’s possible to live on rarefied air and sunlight alone.
There is an undeniable spirituality about this beautiful place, something partly fostered by the culture of the Quichua people, who lead a traditional farming life, and have dotted the landscape with tiny shrines. Their religion is Catholicism blended with indigenous beliefs: the Virgin Mary is identified with Pachamama, the female Earth deity with whom a drop of any drink is shared by pouring it on the ground. A public bus is the best way of exploring the local area and culture on the Quilotoa Loop, a string of Quichua villages a half-day trip from Quito. If you can stomach the twists and turns as it hurtles along the bumpy hillside tracks, the views are much better from the roof. Anyway, when you’re getting squashed between sacks of potatoes and crates of clucking chickens, it’s probably more comfortable.
If you take a bus to the top of the pass, Quilotoa can be tackled as a challenging day-walk down to the villages in the valley below. The trail starts along the crater rim, winding between wild lupins and grasses, descends past farms and fields, plunges down a precipitous canyon and finally ends up by a handful of hostels in the village of Chugchilán. The walk’s not particularly long, but it tells on the lungs, and the steep slopes are hard going. It’s at this point that staying at the Black Sheep Inn, a beautiful ecolodge, pays dividends: it boasts a home-made, wood-fired sauna and a hot tub to ease your aching limbs.
The Quilotoa Loop is accessible by train (4hr) or bus (5hr) from Quito. See www.blacksheepinn.com.
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Top image: Church of Chugchilan © Ecuadorpostales/Shutterstock
Ecuador's Best in 3 Weeks
A journey to the heart of Ecuador: discover the Andean highlands, go on a deep dive in the Amazon jungle, explore the colonial cities on the Pacific Coast and end your trip with the incredibly diverse Galapagos Islands. This trip packs all into one, the adventure of a lifetime!
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Prepare yourself for the epitome of adventure and prestige with not one but two Unique Lodges in Ecuador into the lush and captivating nearby cloud forest to discover Mashpi Lodge. After that, prepare yourself for the wonders at your doorstep at the Finch Bay Galapagos Hotel.
customize ⤍Best of Peru & Galapagos Islands
Split your South America trip into two fascinating countries: Peru with Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, as well as ocean-facing capital Lima. Afterwards, proceed to the Galapagos Islands. You will stay on 3 different islands and explore many more.
customize ⤍Pristine rainforest - Ecuador's Amazon
Start in Ecuador's capital Quito with nearby Cotopaxi volcano. Afterwards proceed to your adventure in the Amazon - a luxurious Lodge awaits with plenty of excursions from river canoes, bird watching, rainforest hikes and more.
customize ⤍Mesmerizing Ecuador - Amazon & Galapagos
Despite its small size, Ecuador packs an incredible variety of wildlife, nature and culture. On this trip, you will explore the Amazon on a river cruise, getting close to not just the wildlife but also the native cultures. Afterwards, fly to the Galapagos for a unique wildlife adventure.
customize ⤍Luxury Andes and Galapagos
Combine Ecuador's mainland, visiting Cotopaxi volcano, the fascinating city of Quito, the market in Otavalo, hot springs in Papallacta and more, with the unique wildlife and nature of the Galapagos. A once in a lifetime trip with extraordinary hotels and lodges awaits.
customize ⤍Best Machu Picchu and Galapagos Islands Tour Package
Explore a trio of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in this Machu Picchu and Galapagos tour package! Your journey begins in Quito, home to the Middle of the World. Afterward, fly on over to the Galapagos Islands the best biodiversity hotspot and following with the sublime Machu Picchu in Peru.
customize ⤍Galapagos Special - 3 islands in 10 days
The Galapagos islands in Ecuador are a truly special place. On this trip, you will get to stay on 3 different islands and explore several more on boat tours. Start and end point of your journey is the UNESCO World Heritage Site and capital of Ecuador - Quito.
customize ⤍On Top of the World & Deep Into the Sea
Calling all adventurers - hiking volcanoes? Meeting indigenous tribes in the Amazon? Diving in the magnificent Galapagos islands? This trip truly has it all. Enjoy a fast-paced trip including Quito, Mindo, Cotopaxi, Coyambe, Otavalo, Yasuni Reserve in the Amazon, as well as the Galapagos.
customize ⤍Luxury Galapagos Cruise & Mainland Highlights
Seven nights on a luxurious super yacht in the Galapagos - explore the natural wonders of this island paradise in style. Afterwards, fly to the mainland and discover Ecuador from Guayaquil to Quito. Volcanoes, waterfalls, markets, and much more are to be discovered.
customize ⤍written by Rough Guides Editors
updated 9.07.2019
From travel safety to visa requirements, discover the best tips for traveling to Ecuador
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