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written by
Rough Guides Editors
updated 30.04.2024
If you're thinking of visiting Austria, but prefer to avoid the trappings of heavily touristed areas, here we share how to do exactly that in three of the country's finest cities. Namely, Graz, Salzburg and Innsbruck. Delivering rich history, culture, and jaw-dropping mountain backdrops, there's plenty of food for thought here (along with lots on the subject of food).
Created by local experts
Graz — an elegant city in the southern province of Styria — is a place where the finer things in life are pretty much always close to hand, especially when it comes to food. In fact, it's known as Austria’s City of Culinary Delights for very good reason.
The fertile farmland of the surrounding countryside produces an overflowing bounty of Graz truffles, East Styrian apples, Vulkanland cured ham, and much more.
To sample some of the region's best produce, take time to visit the famous Farmers’ Market on Kaiser-Josef-Platz.
After picking up freshly baked bread, ham, cheese, and seasonal salad, head to the tree-lined lawns of Augarten Park for a leisurely lunch on the banks of the River Mur.
Also not to be missed is taking a walking tour through Graz’s historic, UNESCO-listed Old Town. While rich in stately European beauty, it's far less crowded than some of the continent’s better known cities.
After taking in the main square — where Renaissance and Baroque architecture rub shoulders — ascend the magnificent Schlossberg. A fortress has stood guard on this same site since at least the 10th century.
Despite being Austria’s second-largest city, Graz has a decidedly calm atmosphere. This is especially evident when you’re taking in the panorama from the Schlossberg.
Another relaxing way to spend an afternoon is to take the funicular railway to the hilltop before meandering a pretty park that's home to the elegant Uhrturm clock tower.
From its medieval core, to the trendy neighbourhoods of Lend and Gries, the views from the summit are wonderful. Another sight that's sure to grab your attention is the Kunsthaus — the city’s eye-catching art museum.
A space-age-style construction that's known to locals as the ‘Friendly Alien’, the gallery somehow complements its historic surroundings. Built for Graz’s 2003 tenure as European Capital of Culture, it houses contemporary artworks from the 1960s to the present day.
Editor's tip: while Graz itself has enough cultural, historical and culinary delights to divert you for your entire stay, don’t miss the chance to get out into the Styrian countryside to enjoy lunch at a buschenschank. These traditional taverns serve platters of the region’s finest produce alongside the best Styrian wine.
In a nutshell, what Graz is to food, Salzburg is to music. Hardly surprising given that Austria’s fourth-largest city was the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, whose legacy still lingers through the city's Baroque residences, auditoriums and dining halls.
In fact, it's hard to imagine a more refined — or relaxing — way to pass an evening than enjoying a Mozart opera or symphony. To further enhance the experience, why not combine a concert with a gourmet meal?
A wonderful place to do exactly that is at the St. Peter Stiftskulinarium. Dating back to 803 AD, this is said to be Europe’s oldest restaurant.
While dining surrounded by vaulted stone arches is pretty special in itself, the exquisite Mediterranean food and fine wine — soundtracked by a live Mozart opera — elevates the experience to even greater heights.
Beyond listening to the great man's music, be sure to tour the Mozart Birthplace, and the stylish Mozart Residence, which was his family's home for fourteen years.
If Mozart’s not your thing, fear not. Salzburg’s other great musical offering — The Sound of Music — might just be your cup of kaffee.
Taking a tour of film locations is a great way to get to know Salzburg — it'll see you visiting the likes of the Residenz Palace, Salzburg Cathedral and St. Peter’s Monastery through the lens of the movie.
Music heritage aside, there are plenty of reasons Salzburg has UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Take a walking tour to discover the city's top sights, among them the cathedral, the Benedictine Nonnberg Abbey, and the Felsenreitschule theatre in the Altstadt (Old Town).
Editor's tip: end your tour at the impressive Hohensalzburg Fortress for fine views over the city, and fine dining options.
If you find mindfulness and relaxation in cathedrals of nature, as opposed to theatres and opera halls, Innsbruck has your name all over it.
Capital of the state of Tirol, this picture-postcard city almost has to be seen to be believed. Think stately avenues lined with pastel-hued buildings, with unexpected architectural delights like the glittering Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) adding extra glamour.
And all this is backed by the natural majesty of the Karwendel Alps, which are a veritable playground for lovers of the great outdoors.
In winter, this area is one of the world’s premier ski and snow sport destinations. Come spring, the ice thaws to reveal a wonderland of alpine meadows, with mountain hiking trails for all ability levels.
On the subject of hiking, we suggest taking the Nordkettenbahn cable car from the Old Town to Hafelekar mountain. From here, an easy hike leads to the summit, which serves spectacular views over Innsbruck.
Another beauty spot not to be missed is Lake Lans, where you can hike through the trees before taking a dip in the calm water in the warmer months.
Back in town, the coffee shops and strudel houses of Innsbruck’s Altstadt are all the more inviting after you've been hiking in the fresh mountain air.
Located near the grand Hofburg Palace, and overlooking the famous Golden Roof, we recommend heading to Café Katzung for coffee and a slice of apple strudel before exploring the Old Town.
Even if you don't intend to hike in the mountains, we suggest you pack your walking shoes — Innsbruck is a place best explored on foot.
For example, you could opt to follow in the footsteps of the Habsburgs, whose royal dynasty was expanded here by Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian I.
The family are associated with some of the city’s most famous sights — the Golden Roof, Leopold’s Fountain, the Tyrolean State Theatre, and the Cathedral of St James — which can be seen on a walking tour of the Altstadt.
Editor's tip: if you fancy taking trips further afield, the city's Welcome Card gives you free travel on buses and trams for stays of two nights and more, and on four cable cars for stays of three nights and more.
If that wasn't enough, it also gives you discounts on the area’s pools, lakes, and other attractions.
Find out more at www.austria.info., and in our feature on three of the best nature-meets-culture cities in Austria.
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Header image: Salzburg skyline with Festung Hohensalzburg herriage © Rasto SK/Shutterstock
written by
Rough Guides Editors
updated 30.04.2024
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