written by Rough Guides Editors
updated 12.06.2019
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written by Rough Guides Editors
updated 12.06.2019
Straddling the cultural crossroads between Europe and Asia, Kazakhstan is an intriguingly cosmopolitan place. This vast country, which stretches from the Caspian Sea to China, is one of Asia’s most diverse, where ethnic Kazakhs and Russians rub shoulders with Uzbeks, Ukrainians, Tatars, Germans and many more in an enviably harmonious mix.
Almaty, its biggest city, may have ceded capital status to its flashy young rival, Astana, but it remains the country’s cultural and financial centre, and custodian of the Kazakh soul. Spectacularly set beneath the snow-capped peaks of the imperious Zailysky-Alatau mountains, it’s a relaxed, pleasantly green city of fancy malls and fountains, black-windowed SUVs and broad, busy boulevards. It’s the sophisticated, modern hub of a booming petro-economy for sure, but one with enough surprises to make Almaty a highlight of any visit to Kazakhstan.
Highlights of Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan
Discover the highlights of Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan on this compact trip. Explore part of the Uzbek Golden Triangle with Bukhara and Samarkand before heading to the cosmopolitan city of Almaty. The Kazakh capital awaits with plenty of adventures in the surroundings.
customize ⤍Along The Great Silk Road
Explore all the highlights of Central Asia: Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan await you in this 3 weeks trip. Learn about the history, enjoy breathtaking nature and experience local traditions and culture. It's time to discover the Silk Road with an expert guide!
customize ⤍Fresh produce is abundant: the foothills around Almaty lay strong claim to be the ancestral home of the apple (the city’s name literally means “father of the apple”) and the fruit here can grow to giant proportions.
© Teow Cek Chuan/Shutterstock
Don’t miss sampling kurt, pungent but curiously addictive balls of dried cheese beloved of nomads out on the Kazakh steppe, though only strict meat-eaters should venture to the cavernous butcher’s hall, where long counters drip with slabs of horsemeat, undoubtedly the local favourite. Finish off with a glass of fresh kvas, a soft drink made from fermented bread, from one of the stalls outside. It knocks the socks off the widely available commercially produced bottles.
At any time of year, it’s well worth escaping the city smog to ride the 4km series of ski lifts, with their fetching leopard-print cabins (in homage to the seldom-seen snow leopards that still roam these mountains), up to the 3180-metre Talgar Pass. Various rocky hiking trails lead up into the surrounding peaks, snow-capped even in summer, and the views are spectacular.
Shymbulak © Mathias Berlin/Shutterstock
A magnificent gilt altarpiece dominates the opulent interior, where (predominantly) women – their heads covered in beautiful scarves – light candles and worship in hushed reverence
It’s a great place to experience Kazakhstan’s refreshingly open attitude to religion: Muslims and Atheists often visit along with their Russian Orthodox friends.
© Leonid Andronov/Shutterstock
For a more nuanced taste of Soviet art, head to the Kasteyev State Arts Museum, undoubtedly the city’s finest. The museum is named after Abilkhan Kasteev, regarded as Kazakhstan’s preeminent painter, and among the vast collection is a fascinating room devoted to his depictions of Soviet life, from epic canvases of the rapidly industrializing landscape to intimate portraits of peasant life.
Kasteyev State Arts Museum © tache/Shutterstock
There’s a Finnish sauna and a marble Turkish hammam but they’re invariably empty – you’ll find your fellow bathers in the ferociously hot Russian parilka (steam room), vigorously thrashing each other with vyeniki (bundles of oak or birch leaves), a wince-inducing ritual said to improve circulation.
The masochism doesn’t end there though: once out of the parilka, it’s de rigueur to upturn a pail of gasp-inducingly cold water over yourself. Finish up with a refreshing dip in the cool plunge pool, beneath a domed atrium so grand it wouldn't feel out of place in imperial Rome.
Edward travelled to Almaty with Air Astana, who fly from London to Almaty via the capital, Astana, three times per week (from £370). Visa-free travel to Kazakhstan for visits of up to fifteen days is now available for nationals of nineteen countries, including the UK, US and Australia.
written by Rough Guides Editors
updated 12.06.2019
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