Few islands in Korea can provide as spectacular an arrival as Ulleungdo’s main settlement, Dodong-ni, whose port makes a sudden appearance in a sumptuous pirate-like cove hidden and encircled by precipitous mountains, and squeezed in on both sides by the valley walls. Ulleungdo’s second main settlement, Jeodong-ni, lies just up the coast, slightly smaller, but relatively open and rather different in character. These two villages, both an untidy but undeniably appealing mishmash of minbak and fish restaurants, give guests a taste of what the rest of the island is like. Naribunji is a farming area of tremendous beauty to the north of the island, whose flatness will come as a great surprise to those who’ve travelled the bumpy coastal road to get there. On the way, picturesque fishing settlements dot the coast, while there’s some good hiking to be enjoyed around the rugged, volcanic peaks that rise up in the centre of the island, almost totally untouched by modern life.