The Knysna elephants
Traffic signs warning motorists about elephants along the N2 between Knysna and Plettenberg Bay are rather optimistic: there are few indigenous pachyderms left and, with such a large forest, sightings are rare. But such is the mystique attached to the Knysna elephants that locals tend to be a little cagey about just how few they number. By 1860, the thousands that had formerly wandered the once vast forests were down to five hundred, and by 1920 (twelve years after they were protected by law), there were only twenty animals left; the current estimate is three. Loss of habitat and consequent malnutrition, rather than full-scale hunting, seems to have been the principal cause of their decline.
The only elephants you're guaranteed to see near Knysna are at the Knysna Elephant Park or the Elephant Sanctuary, both near Plettenberg Bay.
The Winelands
South Africa has over a score of recognized wine routes extending to the Karoo and way into the Northern Cape, but the area known as the Winelands is restricted to the oldest wineries outside the Cape Peninsula, within a 60km radius of Cape Town. The district contains the earliest European settlements at Stellenbosch, Paarl, Franschhoek and Somerset West, each with its own wine route, on which you travel from one estate to the next to taste the wines. On the hillsides and in the valleys around these towns you’ll find a flawless blending of traditional Cape Dutch architecture with the landscape. The Winelands are best covered in a car, as half the pleasure is the drive through the countryside; without your own transport, you could take a day-trip to the Winelands with one of several Cape Town-based companies.
The most satisfying of the Winelands towns is Stellenbosch, which enjoys an easy elegance, beautiful streetscapes, a couple of decent museums and plenty of visitor facilities. One of the region’s scenic highlights is the drive along the R310 through the Helshoogte Pass between Stellenbosch and Paarl, the workaday farming town of the region. Smallest of the Winelands towns, with a rural yet sophisticated feel, Franschhoek has the most magnificent setting at the head of a narrow valley, and has established itself as the culinary capital of the country. The major draw of the sprawling town of Somerset West is Vergelegen, by far the most stunning of all the Winelands estates.
Tackling the Winelands
Of the several hundred estates in the Winelands, the wineries in our selection were chosen not primarily because they produce the best wine (although some do), but for general interest – beautiful architecture or scenery – or just because they are fun. When planning, bear in mind that although all the wineries offer tastings, many offer a lot more, such as restaurants, picnics and horseriding. Choose an area to explore and don't try to visit too many wineries in a day unless you want to return home in a dizzy haze. Most estates charge a fee for a wine-tasting session (anywhere up to R40) and some only have tastings at specific times; see the individual accounts for more details.
The definitive and widely available John Platter's South African Wine Guide (also available as an iPhone app) is a useful companion, which provides ratings of the produce of pretty well every winery in the country.
Wineries around Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch was the first locality in the country to wake up to the marketing potential of a wine route. It launched its wine route in 1971 to huge success; today tens of thousands of visitors are drawn here annually, making this the most toured area in the Winelands. Although the region accounts for only a fraction of South Africa's land under vine, its wine route is the most extensive in the country, approaching three hundred establishments; apart from the tiny selection below (all of which produce creditable wines and are along a series of roads that radiate out from Stellenbosch), there are scores of other excellent places, which taken together would occupy months of exploration. All the wineries are clearly signposted off the main arteries.
Delaire Graff Estate
On the Helshoogte Pass, 6km east of Stellenbosch along the R310 to Franschhoek; 021 885 8160, delairewinery.co.za. The highly regarded Delaire Graff restaurant has possibly the best views in the Winelands, looking through pin oaks across the Groot Drakenstein and Simonsig mountains and down into the valley. Tasting Mon–Sat 10am–5pm & Sun 10am–4pm; summer sundowners with musical accompaniment Fri & Sat 5–9pm; three wines R30, five wines R50, six wines R60.
Jordan Vineyards
11.5km west of Stellenbosch off the R310; 021 881 3441, jordanwines.com. A pioneer among the new-wave Cape wineries, Jordan's hi-tech cellar and modern tasting room are complemented by its friendly service. The drive there is half the fun, taking you into a kloof bounded by vineyards that get a whiff of the sea from both False Bay and Table Bay, which has clearly done something for its output – it has a list of outstanding wines as long as your arm and an award-winning restaurant. Tasting daily 9.30am–4.30pm; R25 for six wines, refundable with purchases.
Morgenhof
4km north of Stellenbosch on the R44; 021 889 5510, morgenhof.com. French-owned chateau-style complex on the slopes of the vine-covered Simonsberg, owned by Anne Cointreau-Huchon (granddaughter of the founder of Remy Martin cognac). Morgenhof has a light and airy tasting room with a bar. Delicious light lunches are served outside, topped off with ice cream on the lawns. Tasting May–Oct Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–3pm; Nov–April Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm; R20 for five wines.
Neethlingshof
6.5km west of Stellenbosch on Polkadraai Rd (the R306); 021 883 8988, neethlingshof.co.za. Centred around a beautifully restored Cape Dutch manor dating back to 1814, reached down a kilometre-long avenue of stone pines, Neethlingshof's first vines were planted in 1692. There's a restaurant and for R95 you can try their "flash food" light lunch – pairings of six wines with six bite-sized takeaways (booking essential). The estate has two labels: Premium and Short Story reserve range, which consists of a Pinotage, a red blend and a flagship Noble Late Harvest white. Tasting Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; R30 for six wines.
Overgaauw
6.5km west of Stellenbosch, off the M12; 021 881 3815, overgaauw.co.za. Notable for its elegant Victorian tasting room, this pioneering estate was the first winery in the country to produce Merlots, and it's still the only one to make Sylvaner, a well-priced, easy-drinking dry white. Tasting Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–3.30pm; free.
Rustenberg Wines
Rustenberg Rd, 5km north of Stellenbosch; 021 809 120, rustenberg.co.za. One of the closest estates to Stellenbosch, Rustenberg is also one of the most alluring, reached after a drive through orchards, sheep pastures and tree-lined avenues. An unassuming working farm, it has a romantic pastoral atmosphere, in contrast to its architecturally stunning, hi-tech tasting room in the former stables. Tasting Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm, Sat 10am–1.30pm; free.
Simonsig Estate
9.5km north of Stellenbosch, off Kromme Rhee Rd, which runs between the R44 and the R304; 021 888 4900, www.simonsig.co.za. The winery has a relaxed outdoor tasting area under vine-covered pergolas, offering majestic views back to Stellenbosch of hazy stone-blue mountains and vineyards. The first estate in the country to produce a bottle-fermented bubbly some three decades back, it also produces a vast range of first-class still wines. Tasting Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat 8.30am–4pm, Sun 11am–3pm; R25 for five wines and a bubbly.
Uva Mira
About 8km south of Stellenbosch, off Annandale Rd, which spurs off the R44; 021 880 1683, uvamira.co.za; map. Enchanting boutique winery that punches well above its weight, and worth visiting just for the winding drive halfway up the Helderberg. The highly original tasting room, despite being fairly recently built, gives the appearance of a gently decaying historic structure, and there are unsurpassed views from the deck across mountainside vineyards to False Bay some 50km away – on a clear day you can even see Robben Island. Tasting Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; R20 for Cellar selection (four wines), R30 for Vineyard selection (two premier wines), R40 for all six wines.