Clothes and food
For a Western “mall experience”, head for Galeria Krakowska (Mon–Sat 9am–10pm, Sun 10am–9pm), just next to the train station. It has all the fashionable Western brands that you could wish for, in addition to a large Carrefour supermarket.
The university
West from the Rynek is the university area, whose first element was the fifteenth-century Collegium Maius building at ul. Jagiellońska 15. Now it’s the University Museum (Mon–Fri 11am–2.20pm, Sat 11am–1.20pm; 16zł). Entrance is by guided tour only – the museum office will sign you up for the next English-language tour, which depart at regular intervals throughout the day. Inside, the ground-floor rooms retain the mathematical and geographical murals once used for the teaching of figures like Copernicus, one of the university’s earliest students.
Wawel
For over five hundred years, Wawel Hill was the seat of Poland’s monarchy. The original cathedral (Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; 8zł) was built in 1020, but the present basilica is a fourteenth-century structure, with a crypt that contains the majority of Poland’s 45 monarchs. Their tombs and side chapels are like a directory of European artistic movements, not least the Gothic Holy Cross Chapel and the Renaissance Zygmuntówska chapel. The excellent Cathedral Museum (Mon–Sat 9am–4pm; 12zł) features religious and secular items dating from the thirteenth century, including all manner of coronation robes.
Visitor numbers are restricted, so arrive early or book ahead to visit the various sections of Wawel Castle (ticket office Mon–Fri 9am–5.45pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4.45pm), including the State Rooms (April–Oct Tues, Thurs & Fri 9.30am–4pm, Wed & Sat 9.30am–3pm, Sun 10am–3pm; Nov–March Tues–Sat 9.30am–3pm, Sun 10am–3pm; 16zł), furnished with Renaissance paintings and tapestries, and the grand Royal Private Apartments (Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm, Sat & Sun 11am–6pm; 21zł). Much of the original contents of the Royal Treasury and Armoury (same times as the State Rooms; 16zł) were sold to pay off royal debts, but still feature some fine works, including the Szczerbiec, the country’s original coronation sword.
Smok – the dragon of kraków
On the western side of Wawel Hill is the Dragon’s Den (daily: July & Aug 10am–7pm; April–June, Sept & Oct 10am–5pm; 3zł), a cavern accessed by a spiral staircase. This was reputedly once the home of Smok, a dragon whose rather objectionable diet included children, cattle and unsuccessful knights. Krak, the legendary founder of Kraków, tricked him into eating a sheep stuffed with sulphur; to quench the burning, Smok drank half the Wisła, causing him to explode. Despite his unfortunate end, the dragon is now the symbol of the city.
Wieliczka salt mines
Ten kilometres from Kraków is the “underground salt cathedral” of Wieliczka, 300km of subterranean tunnels that have been used to mine salt since the thirteenth century (daily: April–Oct 7.30am–7.30pm; Nov–March 8am–5pm). The ticket price includes a tour (68zł English, 49zł Polish), which passes by an underground lake and a number of impressive statues and edifices – including chandeliers – carved out of rock salt. To get there, catch bus #304 from ul. Kurniki next to the main train station (every 20min; 3zł).