Mount Etna

The bleak lava wilderness around the summit of Etna is one of the most memorable landscapes Italy has to offer. If your Sicily trip includes a visit here, prepare for something raw and unforgettable. The volcano’s height is constantly shifting, thanks to both explosive and constructive eruptions, and over the last century it's ranged from 3263m to the current estimate of 3340m.

Whatever the height, Etna is a beast. It’s one of the world’s largest active volcanoes, visible from more than half of Sicily on a clear day. Some eruptions have been catastrophic: in 1169, 1329, and 1381 lava reached the sea; in 1669, Catania was nearly wiped out. The Circumetnea railway has been ruptured multiple times, and in 1979, nine people were killed near the main crater. In 2001, helicopters were called in to water-bomb fires.

Today, getting close to the summit is off-limits due to safety concerns. The observatory meant to monitor the volcano was destroyed in 1971, and Etna has been erupting almost nonstop since 1998. The 2002 eruption buried Piano Provenzana, a resort on the northern side.

If you're planning to hike, don’t ignore local warnings. Etna rewards, but it doesn’t forgive.

There are several approaches to the volcano. If you have a car, you can enjoy some of the best scenery on the north side by taking the circular road that climbs from Linguaglossa to Piano Provenzana. This is a great spot to bring the kids, especially in winter, when they can learn to ski or toboggan. The ski season on Etna usually runs from November to March.

If your trip to Italy includes Catania and you’re using public transport, you’ll only see Etna from the southern side, though this route takes you fairly close to the summit. Buses to Nicolosi run frequently from Catania, but only one continues to Hotel Rifugio Sapienza. It leaves around 8am from outside Catania train station and follows the only drivable road up the south side of the volcano.

From the refuge, you can hike to the summit or take the cable car. The cable cars now operate again after the last eruption and run from 9am until sunset, depending on the weather. The ticket includes a minibus ride from the top station to just below the main crater. Many people choose to walk instead. Hiking from Rifugio Sapienza takes about four hours. If you catch the early-morning bus, you should have enough time to reach the summit and return in time for the 4.30pm departure back to Catania.

No matter how you go or when you visit, wear warm clothes and bring sturdy shoes or boots along with protective glasses to guard against wind-blown grit. You can rent jackets and boots at the cable-car station. Food options on the mountain are limited and overpriced, so it’s worth bringing your own snacks.