TLAPACOYAN, some 70km north of Xalapa en route to the coast at Nautla, is a centre for rafting and river adventures, bounded to the south by the Río Bobos and to the north by the Río María de la Torre. A sizeable but unspoilt and friendly place, and a centre of citrus-fruit production, Tlapacoyan is surrounded by forested hills and pre-Colombian ruins, most important of which are the massive, little-known sites of Filo Bobos.

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