Down on the waterfront, beside Norrbron, is Gustav Adolfs torg, more a traffic island than a square these days. A statue of King Gustav II Adolf marks the centre of the square, between the opera house and the Foreign Ministry opposite. Look out, too, for fishermen pulling salmon out of Strömmen, the fast-flowing stretch of water that winds its way through the centre of the city. Since the seventeenth century, Stockholmers have had the right to fish this outlet from Lake Mälaren to the Baltic; landing a catch here isn’t as difficult as it looks, and there’s usually a group of hopefuls on one of the bridges beside the square.

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