East of Peso da Régua, the minor N222 hugs the south side of the Rio Douro, with the train on the north side, until reaching the small port-wine town of PINHÃO, 25km to the east. It’s a wonderful route and there’s a real sense of arrival at Pinhão, where the river broadens and the terraced hills close in. Cruise boats tie up along a broad riverside esplanade, where a couple of bars look out over a fjord-like vista and there’s a welcome breeze in the evening air. If you’ve come by car, don’t miss the short, winding seven-kilometre drive up to the miradouro at the small village of Casal de Loivos (Favaios–Alijó road) – some say there’s no better view along the whole of the Douro.

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