West of the New and Old towns is the former ghetto area, in which an estimated 380,000 Jews – one-third of Warsaw’s total population – were crammed from 1939 onwards. By the war’s end, the ghetto had been razed to the ground, with only around three hundred Jews and just one synagogue, the Nożyk Synagogue at ul. Twarda 6, left. You can still get an idea of what Jewish Warsaw looked like on the miraculously untouched ul. Próźna.

Take tram #22 from Centralna Station to ul. Okopowa 49/51 to reach the vast, overgrown Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz Zydowski; Mon–Thurs 10am–5pm, Fri 9am–1pm, Sun 11am–4pm, closed Sat; 8zł), one of the few still in use in Poland.

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