TODI is one of the best-known Umbrian hill-towns, its central Piazza del Popolo widely held to be among the most perfect medieval piazzas in Italy, and the town itself to be the country’s most liveable. At heart a thriving and insular agricultural centre, Todi is also a favoured trendy retreat for foreign expats and Rome’s arts and media types. In the way of these things the visitors haven’t been far behind, but neither fact should deter you from making a day-trip: few places beat it for sheer location – its hilltop position is stunning – and fairy-tale medievalism. Many festivals and events are held in Todi throughout the year, including the increasingly popular Todi Festival (late Aug or early Sept;

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