The serene, attractive backwater of BEVAGNA is quieter and less visited than Spello, with a windswept central square of stark perfection. Dating from around the thirteenth century, Piazza S. Silvestri is flanked by two of Umbria’s finest Romanesque churches – both untouched and creaking with age. Look out particularly for the surreal gargoyles over the doorway of the larger church, San Michele.  The piazza’s fountain, which, while blending perfectly, was installed in 1889.

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