South of Oliena and Dorgali, the Supramonte massif provides lots of opportunities for mountain hikes, which should be accompanied by a guide – lists of available guides are available from the tourist offices at Oliena and Dorgali (w dorgali.it). The most popular excursion is to the nuraghic village of Tiscali, spectacularly sited within a vast mountaintop cavern; allow 4–6 hours for the return walk from Su Gologone on the Oliena side, or from the Flumineddu River on the Dorgali side (an easier ascent). One of Sardinia’s most dramatic mountain landscapes lies further south, cut through by the Flumineddu Valley and the Gola di Gorropu, one of southern Europe’s deepest canyons. You’ll get some stunning views of the valley from the SS125, running high above it, but you should hook up with a guide to experience it more directly. Even for shorter hikes, you’ll need hardy footwear with a secure grip and ankle support, and preferably some head protection against bumps and falls: the boulders can be extremely slippery, especially when wet.

Along the coast, you can make half- or full-day hikes from Cala Gonone to the beaches at Cala Luna and Cala Sisine. From Cala Sisine, the route wanders inland up the Sisine canyon, as far as the solitary church of San Pietro, from where a track leads down to the village of Baunei. Again, guides are advised for all but the most straightforward coastal routes.

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