REGGIO CALABRIA was one of the first ancient Greek settlements on the Italian mainland; in recent years, it’s become synonymous with urban decline and the influence of the local mafia, or ’Ndrangheta, though foreign tourists are unlikely to come into contact with the city’s seamier side. The most attractive areas are the long, mainly pedestrianized Corso Garibaldi – the venue for Calabria’s liveliest passeggiata – and the lungomare, the seafront esplanade that affords wonderful views of the Sicilian coastline and, occasionally, Mount Etna. At the southern end of the Corso, you can see remains of sixth-century-BC city walls and a Roman bathing complex. Just off the Corso lies Reggio’s Duomo, an airy building heavily restored after the 1908 earthquake.

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