CAMPOBASSO, Molise’s regional capital, is a modern town whose most notable attraction is the Museo Sannitico at Via Charizia 12, with statues and a scattering of archeological finds from the area, most notably the haunting contents of a Longobard tomb, a warrior buried alongside his horse. Steep alleys of the old upper town lead up to a couple of Romanesque churches – San Bartolomeo, which has eerily contorted figures carved around its main door, and San Giorgio, whose entrance displays a dragon surrounded by stylized flowers. At the top of the hill are a monastery and sixteenth-century castle, from which there is a panorama over the environs and the historic centre’s borgo antico below.

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