Just west of Eger, in the Szépasszonyvölgy – “Valley of the Beautiful Woman” – local vineyards produce Bikavér (Bull’s Blood – smooth, spicy and ruby red), so called because the Ottomans believed the deep red liquid Hungarians drank to steel themselves for battle was bull’s blood rather than wine. Other Hungarian varieties cultivated in the region, and on sale here, include Muskotály (semi-sweet Muscatel), Leányka (medium-dry white) and Medoc Noir (rich, dark, sweet red). Sample them all in the string of small cellars built into the hillside a twenty-minute walk from Eger (go west along Király utca to Szépasszonyvölgy). Finding your favourite cellar is a matter of luck and taste, but you may like Kiss Pinceszet at Cziky Sandor utca 15. Cellars close by 8pm.