The thickly forested Roya valley runs from Col de Tende on the French–Italian border down to Breil-sur-Roya. The roads that follow the river are narrow and steep, so driving is usually slow. In the upper valley, the highlight is the Vallée des Merveilles, a jumble of lakes and tumbled rocks on the western flank of Mont Bego. Down in the lower valley, don’t miss the sleepy Italianate town of Sospel.

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