Though it’s better with a good meal, if you want to try a glass of Chinon you could visit the Caves Painctes, off rue Voltaire, a deep cellar carved out of the rock where a local winegrowers’ guild runs tastings. “Paincte” was supposedly the name of a wine cellar owned by the father of Rabelais, who was born at the manor farm of La Devinière, 6km southwest of town, where there’s a good but rather dry museum on Rabelias’ life. Tastings take place July & Aug Tues–Sun, 11am, 3pm, 4.30pm & 6pm and cost around €3.

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