The wonderful citadel of Dinan, 30km south of St-Malo just before the river Rance begins to broaden towards the sea, has preserved almost intact its 3km encirclement of protective masonry, along with street upon colourful street of late medieval houses. However, despite its slightly unreal perfection, it’s seldom overrun with tourists. There are no essential museums, the most memorable architecture is vernacular rather than monumental, and time is most easily spent wandering from crêperie to café and down to the pretty port. At the end of July, every other (even-numbered) year, the Fête des Remparts is celebrated with medieval-style jousting, banquets, fairs and processions, culminating in an immense fireworks display.

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