Marking the eastern end of Kadriorg Park is the immense, futuristic-looking KUMU (April-Sept Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–6pm, Wed 11am–8pm; Oct–April closed Tues; €6), a must-see for anyone interested in twentieth century Estonian art. It’s certainly a wide-ranging collection: surrealism, pop art and abstraction flourished during the Soviet period, despite official hostility to such modernist excesses.

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