Behind the Town Hall, Lossi climbs Cathedral Hill, a pleasant park with the remains of the red-brick Cathedral at the top, housing the University History Museum (May–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; Oct–April Wed–Sun 11am–5pm; €4). Inside are some weird and wonderful scientific instruments, and a viewing terrace on one of the former cathedral towers. Nearby is the Sacrifice Stone, left over from Estonia’s pagan past; students now burn their lecture notes on it after the exams. Behind the stone you’ll find Kissing Hill, where newlywed grooms carry their brides.

South of Cathedral Hill, the infamous “Grey House” at Riia 15b – a place which filled the inhabitants of Tartu with dread in the 1940s and 50s – is now the KGB Cells Museum (Tues–Sat 11am–5pm; €4) with exhibits on deportations, Estonian resistance and life in the Soviet gulags, summarized in English.

 

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