The island of Saaremaa, off the west coast of Estonia, is claimed by many to be one of the most authentically Estonian parts of the country. Buses from Tallinn, Tartu and Pärnu come here via a ferry running from the mainland village of Virtsu to Muhu Island, which is linked to Saaremaa by a causeway. The principal attraction is Kuressaare’s thirteenth-century castle, one of the finest in the Baltic region, but the rest of the island also deserves exploration; cycling is the best way to get around. Highlights include the 37km route north from Kuressaare to Angla, its five much-photographed wooden windmills by the roadside. Halfway along, Kaali village, home to a giant meteorite crater thought to be at least 4000 years old, makes a worthy detour.