If you go with Tallinn’s Tallinn Traveller, this is the day route that offers an excellent introduction to the park: start in the village of Palmse, where you can take in the grand German manor (May–Sept 10am–7pm; Oct–April shorter hours; €7), then cycle 8.5km northeast to Sagadi Manor, a well-preserved eighteenth-century aristocratic home (May–Sept daily 10am–6pm; €4), before heading north for 3km to Oandu – the start of several nature trails. Just before the fishing village of Altja, 2km to the north, you’ll find the 1km Beaver Trail, where you can see dams built by beavers and stop for lunch at Altja Korts – an attractive tavern serving tasty fresh dishes, such as grilled salmon with grated potato pancakes (mains €8). From Altja you can cycle around the coast of the Vergi peninsula, taking in the picturesque villages (17km) surrounded by pine forest, before ending up on the wide, clean, windswept beach in Võsu. A seaside trail heads north from Võsu for 6km before arriving at the attractive village of Käsmu, which has a superb nautically themed museum (daily 9am–6pm; donations welcome) started by a local collector many years ago; look out for the giant sea mines in the front yard.

If you have any energy left, you can then tackle the rugged cycle trails along the western half of the Käsmu peninsula before getting picked up. Travelling independently, you can take the bus to Käsmu (see p.249), do the trail in reverse and then cycle up from Palmse to Võsu (6km) for an overnight stay before catching a bus back to Tallinn the following day.

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