Long ago, the Jutes, the people of Jutland, were a separate tribe from the more warlike Danes who occupied the eastern islands. By the Viking era, however, the battling Danes had spread west, absorbing the Jutes, and real power gradually shifted towards Zealand, where it has largely stayed ever since. Now, Århus, Denmark’s second city halfway up the eastern coast, and Aalborg, capital of northern Jutland, are vibrant, cosmopolitan urban centres that draw those who dare to venture on from the other, more frequently visited, centres. To the west, the landscape becomes ever-more dramatic, with heather-clad moors and forests inland and both fjord and sea coastlines to explore – and the foreign tourists dry out completely. North of Aalborg the landscape becomes increasingly wind-battered and stark until it reaches Skagen, on the peninsula’s tip.

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