The city’s (perhaps the country’s) best attraction is the H.C. Andersens Hus at Bangs Boder 29 (June–Aug daily 10am–5pm; Sept–May Tues–Sun 10am–4pm; 95kr), where the writer was born in 1805. The museum includes a library of Andersen’s works and audio recordings of some of his best-known fairytales read by the likes of Sir Laurence Olivier. There’s also intriguing paraphernalia including school reports, manuscripts, paper cuttings and drawings from his travels. The most striking feature, aside from the diminutive house itself, is the series of murals by Niels Larsen Stevns (1930) depicting different stages of Andersen’s life. Check out the telling quotes on Andersen’s unconventional looks and talent: “He is the most hideous man you could find but has a poetic childish mind”, commented one contemporary. Down the road, at Munkemøllestræde 3–5, is the tiny H. C. Andersens Barndomshjem (Childhood Home; June–Aug daily 10am–5pm; Sept–May Tues–Sun 11am–4pm; 30kr), where the writer lived between the ages of 2 and 14.

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