A slender canal divides the two sides of Nyhavn (“new harbour”), picturesquely lined with colourful eighteenth-century houses – now bars and cafés – and thronged with tourists year-round. Just north of Nyhavn, the royal district of Frederiksstaden centres on cobbled Amalienborg Slotsplads, home to the four Amalienborg royal palaces. Two remain as royal residences, and there’s a changing of the guard at noon if the monarch is home. In the opposite direction is the great marble dome of Frederikskirken, also known as Marmorkirken or marble church, modelled on St Peter’s in Rome.

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