Fifteen kilometres beyond Agios Thyrsos is DIPKARPAZ, the last village on the peninsula and your last chance to fill up with petrol. It’s a prosaic kind of a place, reflected in the preponderance of vans and pick-up trucks on its streets, and is mainly notable for the fact that there are still Greeks living here among the largely Turkish incomers. In the centre is an Orthodox church overlooked by a very large mosque, and behind them arcaded shops. Around Dipkarpaz, to the north (follow the signs for the Oasis Hotel), lie the substantial ruins of the twelfth-century Agios Philon church, one of the few Orthodox churches in Cyprus built in the Romanesque rather than the Byzantine style (all of which are found on the Karpaz Peninsula). Standing in a cluster of palm trees, the church is characterized by a profusion of blind arches and windows. Beside and around Agios Philon are the remains of Greco-Roman Karpasia and a fifth-century AD cathedral built from stone plundered from it. From the beach you can see the remains of the ancient harbour, including a 100m-long breakwater stretching out to sea.

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