Don’t dare use the dreaded T-word – although Bosnian coffee is served Turkish-style, with hot water poured over unfiltered grounds, locals insist that their variety is unique. It’s markedly weaker than Turkish coffee, mainly because of its function as a social lubricant – it’s consumed fervidly throughout the day, with different coffee sittings ascribed different terms: razgalica in the morning, razgovoruša a little later on, and sikteruša following a meal. Coffee is served on a metal tray from a džezva, a cute metal pot, and poured into little tumblers (fildžan). Also on the tray will be a šečerluk, containing a few cubes of sugar – it’s traditional to dip the corner of a sugar cube into your coffee for a flash, nibble it, then let the coffee wash it down. And, most importantly, do as the locals do and take your time.

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