Innsbruck’s main artery is Maria-theresien-strasse, famed for the view north towards the great Nordkette, the mountain range that dominates the city. At its southern end the triumphal arch, Triumphpforte, was built for the marriage of Maria Theresa’s son Leopold in 1756. Halfway along, the Annasäule, a column supporting a statue of the Virgin, commemorates the retreat of the Bavarians, who had been menacing Tyrol in 1703. Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse leads on into the centre, opening out into a plaza lined with arcaded medieval buildings. At the plaza’s southern end is the Goldenes Dachl, or “Golden Roof” (though the tiles are really copper), built in the 1490s to cover an oriel window from which the court of Emperor Maximilian could observe the square below. The Goldenes Dachl Museum, is flashy but disappointing, offering a brief glimpse of the balcony.

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