The complex of Baroque buildings at the centre of Salzburg exudes the ecclesiastical and temporal power of Salzburg’s archbishops, whose erstwhile living quarters, the Residenz (Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–4pm; €12, including access to the cathedral museums and organ gallery), dominates the west side of Residenzplatz. Take a self-guided audio-tour of the lavish state rooms, then head one floor up to the Residenzgalerie, whose collection includes a few interesting paintings, most notably Rembrandt’s small, almost sketch-like Old Woman Praying.

On the east side of Residenzplatz, accessed from Mozartplatz, is the Neue Residenz, built by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, and topped by the Glockenspiel, a seventeenth-century musical clock which chimes at 7am, 11am and 6pm. It now houses the excellent Salzburg Museum (Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; €8.50), which, as well as showing some of the archbishop’s lavish rooms, explores Salzburg’s history, its rediscovery by Romantic painters and the city’s tourist industry.

 

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