It’s an easy ninety-minute bus ride 45km northwest from Gracias to SANTA ROSA DE COPÁN, a colourful colonial relic built on the proceeds of the tobacco industry. Unusually for a town of this size, the majority of its streets are still cobbled, which gives it a traditional feel. While fresh in the mornings and evenings, the town heats up steadily during the day.

In the centre of town is the delightful, shady Parque Contreras, the Parque Central, with a beautiful cathedral on its eastern side. Calle Real Centenario, lined with shops and restaurants, runs along the southern edge of the Parque, past the town’s central market a couple of blocks east.

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