Some 22km north of Copán, set in lush highland scenery dotted with coffee fincas and tracts of pine, the Luna Jaguar spa resort is a great place to relax. Here thermal waters pour into the cold-water river, creating natural pools and showers. L40 will get you into the man-made pools, but across the river, with another L200 entrance fee, you enter a world fit for a Maya king, with pools and footbaths all around.

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