An 18km road runs all the way around the island, giving access to some glorious deserted beaches; it takes four or more hours to walk the whole thing, or you can take one of the moto-taxis that hang around the end of the dock in Amapala.

A 45-minute walk or L10–20 moto-taxi ride (avoid the car taxis that may be waiting at the end of the pier – find a red moto-taxi near the square) east from the Parque Central takes you to Playa El Burro, where you can while away the afternoon people-watching – children and taxi drivers play football on the beach before cooling off in the sea. Popular Playa Grande, west of the plaza, is backed by rows of comedores serving freshly barbecued fish at the weekend. A further ten minutes west is Playa Negra, a pretty volcanic sand beach.

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